DES MOINES — Each year, judges gather on Iowa State Fairgrounds to rate competitions on everything from animal husbandry to husband calling.
I’ve also been part of the judgment for the past two years, giving you ten-dollar words and analysis on the finest concessions the Iowa State Fair has to offer on sticks and paper plates. But this year, I got in on the ground floor with an invitation to help narrow the top 11 new foods down to three — an annual convention that sends the results to fairgoers in August.
Soon, you all will have a chance to try them for yourselves and vote on your No. 1 favorite. With so many options and so little time, here’s my guide to help you find contrasts in the event where “nothing compares,” running this year from Aug. 8 to 18.
1. Party Balls by JR’s SouthPork Ranch
The name of this new novelty elicited many giggles from my table of judges,which included fair royalty.
They were billed as a leveled-up chips and dip. With fried potato chips on the shell, shredded hash browns and bacon inside, and a drizzle of Anderson Erickson Party Dip, they certainly were a party for your mouth.
With golden hues, I was expecting the flavor to be overwhelmingly “fried.” But once you bite inside, you get a hot mix of cheesy and savory cooled by a little sour cream party dip drizzle on the outside. This is the kind of flavor that would pair well with ranch dressing, too.
It reminded me of cheesy potatoes at a church potluck, but with more nuance and portability. For its novelty, presentation and balance, I give this my top rank.
For what it’s worth, other judges at my table disagreed with ranking it No. 1.
“I can get that from any of the ladies at my church,” one said.
I’m not sure what church she goes to, but this is something I would only expect to see at the Iowa State Fair.
2. Lemonade Donut Drops by The Snack Box
You already know the State Fair for lemonade and fried food.Now, put them together.
A crunch of granulated sugar coating yields to a soft center — not doughy, but not overfried. The lemon is a bright balance of both sweet and tart, the latter of which can be difficult to attain in a fried or starchy food.
This is a refreshingly light take on fried fair food, which has a tendency to sit like a lump in your stomach as you walk all over creation. And at $6, it’s reasonably priced.
3. Iowa Sm’Oak’ed Roll by Whatcha Smokin BBQ
This presentation from a vendor who seems to make the top food list every year serves as a liaison between the heart of America and the Far East.
After a flight to a foreign land where pork tenderloin is presented as sushi, a peppery Poblano ranch sauce welcomes you at immigration before forwarding you to jalapeno cream corn, queso and rice agents at customs. Then, you exit the airport and find the meat you traveled for accompanied by barbecue sauce, sesame seeds and green onion.
But with so many flavors along the way, you realize that savoring the journey is as important as the destination.
This item was named one of the top three new foods by judges, giving fairgoers a chance to vote on it in August.
4. Tipsy Peach by Bubble Bar & Bistro
A luscious peach soaked in sangria shows us what makes Georgia so proud. Sitting atop a waffle with creme fraiche, she’ll show you how to savor the August heat without reaching for something to drink.
Luscious peach delivers a quick zip of booze, complementing the sweet fruit. But with the alcohol cooked off, this one is keeping it classy.
Juice from the peach gently softens the top of a crispy waffle as hints of lemon mingle with the creme fraiche.
I ate this in the comfort of air conditioning, but this is a cool and warm treat I’d gladly enjoy outdoors in the dog days of summer.
5. Bacon Cheeseburger Eggroll by Winn & Sara’s Kitchen
Tangy sauce hits the nostrils with hints of vinegar and perhaps Thousand Island dressing as my teeth crunch into the robust eggroll shell. Inside, ground meat filling delivers a healthy balance of zest, fat and salt.
And, of course, I use “healthy” in the loosest sense of the word.
The sauce cooperates with the meat rather than trying to compete with it. That creamy but sparing finish balances it out as a pleasant treat with fewer carbs than a burger. The only thing it was missing was more toppings inside, as the pickle it supposedly had wasn’t detectable.
This item was named one of the top three new foods by judges, giving fairgoers a chance to vote on it in August.
6. Funnel Cake Burger by Jada’s Concessions
This is another entry in the category of over-the-top fried sandwiches that can only exist at state fairs. I’d put this in the same category as the Deep Fried Bacon Brisket Mac-n-Cheese Grilled Cheese we saw last year and the “OMG” chicken sandwich with a Krispy Kreme doughnut bun in 2022.
A nacho cheese sauce with hints of jalapeno coats the patty already enveloped by soft bites of a funnel cake gently sweetening the deal.
This wasn’t the best burger meat or funnel cake you’ll find, even at the Iowa State Fair. But the beauty of these concoctions is that each element doesn’t have to be perfect, because it’s a new beast with each new construction.
7. Piggy in a Donut by Biscuit Bar
With reminders of school cafeteria breakfasts, this isn’t so much a new invention as it is a callback of nostalgia. This appeals to me in a way junk food appeals to us all — on an emotional level, if perhaps irrational.
With a thin, slightly doughy fried batter shell, the mild sausage inside marries savory, and sweet, with an unexpected cheese acting as the officiant. The sausage isn’t dry, which can be a risk when frying it.
It came with syrup, which I barely touched. It was already coated with sugar, but it was a nice option to have.
8. Lobster Corn Dog by Destination Grille
It’s probably the most opulent corndog you’ll ever see — for better or worse.
There were good parts to this. It had a lemon aioli that was bright and creamy. It also was finished with a nice blend of herbs and aged Parmesan.
But when the lobster came in, it felt how I imagine it would feel if Queen Elizabeth II made an appearance at the Iowa State Fair. An honor, sure — but a tad awkward and out of place in a setting where half the crowd is in overalls and boots.
It was dense, scalding from the fryer, and difficult to consume on a stick, making it hard to enjoy. It’s price tag over $20 made that hard to swallow.
Perhaps this is why America has presidents.
Other judges disagreed. This item was named one of the top three new foods by judges, giving fairgoers a chance to vote on it in August.
9. Cinnamon Crunch Apple Taco by the Iowa Specialty Crop Growers Association
A crunchy shell bursting with vanilla ice cream melts a robust dusting of cinnamon and sugar.
Sweet apples were well spiced and gooey — messy, actually. The vanilla isn’t an a la mode accessory, but a necessary toner of the apple’s sweet notes.
If you like fried ice cream or sopapillas, there’s a decent chance you’ll like these.
10. Dough-chos by Dough Crazy
Every year, this vendor makes the top list.
A rich chocolate chip dough floods your sweet senses. Early on, I turn to the whipped cream and vanilla ice cream to buffer the flood.
A few bites of brownie come in as a bit player to lighten it up with some variety, as wafers add a crunch.
At $12, it’s not a bad value if you have a sweet tooth and are looking for a big portion. But in its unfailing dedication to cookie dough in its purest forms, this one doesn’t have the innovation it needs for a higher rating.
11. Deep-Fried Uncrustable PB&J by The Bird’s Nest
Twinkies, Oreos, butter. Each year, a new one tries to take the blue ribbon for state fair novelties emerging from the fryer.
When this one came out perfectly golden with a dusting of powdered sugar and drizzle of syrup, I was rooting for it. I ate these growing up, and still do sometimes as an adult.
But once you get past the fried edges, it just doesn’t have the right proportions. The peanut butter doesn’t meld well with the fried shell, there’s not enough fried coating over the white bread, and there isn’t enough jelly. Since the Uncrustables are premade, it’s something the vendor can’t easily fix.
It just tastes like a really hot peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
Comments: Features reporter Elijah Decious can be reached at (319) 398-8340 or elijah.decious@thegazette.com.
