Getting a custom suit is definitely exciting, but just how long can you enjoy the garment you’ve invested a good deal of time and money into? Today, we’ll be taking a look at one of the very first custom suits that I ever had made, how well it’s aged over the years, what I still like about it, and what I would change if I had it to do over again.
Table of Contents
- What Kind of “Custom” Suit Are We Looking At?
- A Bit of Background: Indochino
- Kyle’s Custom Suit Details
- An Explanation of Kyle’s Choices
- Conclusion
- Outfit Rundown
As a fun fact: today’s post is shaped by our viewers. During our previous live streams, we’ve received a lot of questions and requests to show off a lot of our very first pieces of custom-made clothing, and we also thought it was a great idea. Comment down below if you want to see Raphael, Preston, or Nathan do the same in the future!
What Kind of “Custom” Suit Are We Looking At?
The one we’ll be reviewing today is a made-to-order suit from Indochino. Why is it important for us to clarify that? Well, as Preston discussed in a previous post, the word “custom” is a pretty large umbrella term, where no two items labeled as custom are going to be of the same quality.
So, I want to be completely clear with you guys. This is not a fully bespoke suit from a Savile Row tailor but, at the same time, it’s not a readily available off-the-rack suit either.
For most of us with an interest in classic tailoring or clothing, made-to-order is the first big leap or upgrade; sort of the next step in terms of suiting from having only purchased ready-to-wear, off-the-rack clothing. It certainly was for me too. And if you’re on that journey as well, I hope you get some helpful tips today.
I also wanted to let you know that this isn’t my actual very first custom suit. That suit was actually a solid navy blue from Brooks Brothers. But, as it completely does not fit anymore, it didn’t feel like the best fit to talk about here. Because while I could talk about the details from that suit, I stopped wearing it a very long time ago and that wouldn’t make for an accurate assessment.
A Bit of Background: Indochino
First up, let’s take a quick look at the brand that made my suit. Indochino was founded in 2007 by Heikal Gani and Kyle Vucko with Drew Green replacing Kyle Vucko after he stepped down in 2015.
Originally, the company was online-only, specializing in made-to-measure and made-to-order clothing, focusing on affordability as one of the first companies to do so with its level of success. And now, this is still the case today, as Indochino has opened around 50 brick-and-mortar stores in the US and Canada including Vancouver, where their headquarters are based.
As of 2021, Indochina has also partnered with the department store Nordstrom, where over 20 locations now bear an in-store Indochino. So, as much as we live in a generally casual world, it’s pretty great news that people still want access to tailored clothing.
Since the company launched, they’ve been a big point of conversation in the menswear world; with some people raving about how good their products are and, others, somewhat skeptical about the whole operation.
Because of their overall affordability marketing, they certainly are a great place for us menswear enthusiasts to take a look. But, not everyone is convinced that Indochino can offer great quality at a low cost.
Fort Belvedere
Grenadine Silk Tie in Navy Blue
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Silk Pocket Square in Brown with Blue Paisley
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Battleship Gray Jacquard Woven Tie with Printed Light Blue and White Diamonds
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Fort Belvedere
Orange Red Jacquard Woven Tie with Printed Diamonds in Blue and White
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Fort Belvedere
Blue Delphinium Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower
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Fort Belvedere
Silver Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls – 925 Sterling Palladium Plated
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This post is not a direct review of Indochino as a brand, partially because there are so many Indochino reviews out there. But, mainly because this is one of my oldest custom suits and I wanted to share my honest thoughts and feelings about one of my first custom clothing experiences as five years have passed.
Moreover, a lot of the other reviews out there are done with almost no time in between receiving the product and then talking about it, which isn’t a very accurate representation of actually getting a suit and wearing it in a very real-life way.
Kyle’s Custom Suit Details
The suit is a made-to-order, double-breasted, three-piece suit. When I ordered the suit, which was about five years ago, I believe it cost around $800. I chose to have it made in a navy wool pinstripe. I chose it because I wanted to feel warm in the fall and winter months and to have something that was sturdy and sophisticated any time I decided to wear it.
The jacket is constructed in a traditional 6×2 stance with lapels that are not too wide. I prefer a more modern silhouette and a slightly slimmer lapel fits my style well.
Fort Belvedere
Orange Red Jacquard Woven Tie with Printed Diamonds in Blue and White
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On the lapel, you’ll notice I have a slightly lighter color around the buttonhole. While it’s not everybody’s choice, I like it because it helps me to stand out and I don’t always like to have a boutonniere on, so there’s something a little bit more unique to me and my personality on the jacket. And I continued this theme onto the last buttonhole on my working surgeon’s cuffs.
I went with surgeon’s cuffs because I like subtle details and something that’s unique and something that you might not normally find off-the-rack. And, of course, to walk around with the last button open on your sleeve and be able to show off a watch or the shirt cuff color is always important to me as well.
The jacket is lined in a paisley pattern and I like that I chose this initially because it gives a sort of “business in the front, party in the back” kind of a vibe, and I am able to wear the jacket completely when walking down the street and wave the color pop. But, at the same time, I can keep it buttoned up and it’s just personal and something that’s meaningful to me, but it’s not in everyone’s face, which I like.
The rest of the jacket is quite traditional and it has double vents in the rear, a straight, welted breast pocket, and flapped hip pockets that are cut at an angle.
Moving onto the waistcoat beneath the jacket, you’ll start to see some additional interesting details. Just like the jacket, it’s a double-breasted closure. But, unlike the jacket, it doesn’t have lapels. Instead, you can see a horseshoe shape with the overlapping sides of the waistcoat wrapped over each other.
I thought that this was a great choice because it allows you to bring something simple and unique to your vest that you might not normally see outside of a made-to-measure or a custom vest option. I liked how, when I would take off my jacket, by wearing the vest, I would still feel put together and not underdressed. Otherwise, in the waistcoat, it has a paisley lining, two pockets, and a back belt.
Fort Belvedere
Magenta, Pink, Grey Mottled Knit Tie Cri De La Soie Silk
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And finally, we’ll cover the suit trousers. Unlike Raphael, I’m not a big fan of pleats. So, instead, I chose to have my trousers feature a flat front finish with a side tab closure and no cuff.
An Explanation of Kyle’s Choices
Why did I choose to go double-breasted?
In short, it remains one of my favorite suit jacket features as our world gets more and more casual with all of its style choices. I do find that the double-breasted feature on a suit jacket is iconic, sophisticated, and is always a head-turner. I also find that the double-breasted option looks great on someone with broad shoulders and chest as well.
What’s the reason behind making it a three-piece suit?
Well, I really like the option to always appear dressed or put together even if I decided to remove my suit jacket.
Why did I choose that particular fabric?
Although some might choose to wear the suit fabric for year-round wear, I chose it because of its sturdy, heftier feel and it seemed like it would be something that I could wear in the cooler months. But, I have worn it at almost all times throughout the year except for summer.
Why did I choose this color and pattern?
Its classic appearance reminds me of old films and the way gentlemen used to dress, and I find that that classic appearance gives me a great foundation to add even more of my own personality through things like cufflinks, ties, or pocket squares, just like the kind you can get at Fort Belvedere.
Were there any specific details that I wanted on the suit and, if so, why?
The contrasting buttonhole thread. I wanted it for its unique appearance and for the versatility to be able to mix and match with other colors and different outfits in the future.
Kyle’s Likes & Dislikes About The Suit
What do I still love about this suit?
I really like the color and pattern that I chose. It feels true to me, true to my personality, and something that is quite timeless. The double-breasted feature on the suit jacket is still a big favorite of mine. It’s one of my all-time favorite go-to’s on suit jackets. I think it complements me well.
Although I sometimes wear non-double-breasted suit jackets, I don’t wear them all the time. I could definitely see myself making the same choice if I were to remake the suit today.
What would I change about the suit today?
Overall, I’m not thrilled with a side tab closure. It certainly works and it’s quite clean in appearance when your shirt is tucked in but, as my weight has fluctuated over the years, it has become less effective as opposed to when I had chosen belt loops.
If I were to order the suit again today, what would I do differently?
It would be to purchase the trousers with belt loops or to, at least, purchase a second pair of trousers that have belt loops.
Fort Belvedere
Chestnut Brown Calf Leather Belt Aniline Dyed Cut-To-Size
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Fort Belvedere
Jasper Silver Solid Brass Belt Buckle Rounded Rectangle Exchangeable
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I would probably choose to have the same color and pattern choice, but in a lighter-weight fabric. I can sometimes get a little too hot too quickly.
Conclusion
So, there we have it; one of my very first custom suits put under the microscope. There are things I’d keep as is, and a few I could tweak a bit if I’d get another custom suit in the future. I hope you all enjoyed it.
Outfit Rundown
Today, I’m wearing a slate gray wool turtleneck with my navy wool striped suit trousers, as well as a pair of chocolate brown Chelsea boots and a pair of brown shadow-stripe Fort Belvedere socks.
Fort Belvedere
Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Dark Brown and Beige Fil d'Ecosse Cotton
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